Is car hop the dealership a rip off??

Alicia--no one should ever buy a car without having YOUR OWN mechanic check it top to bottom--and underneath--buyer beware--if you can't get it checked--don't buy it. No one can possibly tell about the real care it got and how much maintenance it received..once you buy a car, it can be loaded with problems. You might want to save a little more for a down payment and buy a NEW economical car without all the add ons. The new car comes with a warranty--that helps for two or three years. The systems will all work OK and you can be sure of the car's history. A used car or a car purchased without a good check is downright foolish. Buying new and paying a finance for 3 years is a money saver in the long run,...never finance longer than 3 years--you will pay on a car that is not worth as much as what you have left to pay on it. A 3rd year resale is always still pretty good.

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Any dealership is a potential ripoff. If you are looking at financing the vehicle - please do not tell them what you can afford to pay a month - they will give you exactly that and then some. Look for the lowest interest rate - this wil generally give you the lowest payment rate. Also, if you have a trade, get it appraised before getting credit pulled. This way, you know if you have to keep shopping or what kind of money you may need to put with it before bringing your score down. Hope this helps!

The absolutely free reverse vin check sites generally provide fake information. To get real information, money will have to be paid. The free searches provide fake information so they can get your email address to send spam.

Stay away from shady reverse vin check sites, most likely you won't get any information after you make the payment. Not to mention you won't get a report and you won't get an answer if you try to call for a refund. Stick with a reputable reverse vin check site like http://www.reversevincheck.net/ that has been around since 1995.

car hop dealership rip

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Just cancel the insurance on the car efftective the day you gave it back. They'll only charge you for the time you had the vehicle. Just ask your agent for a cancellation release, sign it and if you made a payment you'll get a refund for the unused amount.

Carhop Reviews

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i would ask around to your friends and also look

Run A Vehicle History Report Before You Buy That Used Car

You would not believe how many emails I get from people who bought a used car then later found out it was previously wrecked, now they are stuck. Think of an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report as a credit report for used cars. You MUST run this vehicle title search if you buy a used car so you don't get scammed. There are many dishonest people who will not tell you where that used car came from or that that it was salvaged.

All about Kelley Blue Book

People ask "What's the Blue Book value of my trade-in?" The Blue Book value of your car is the market value listed in the Kelley Blue Book. Many people spell it wrong as Kelly Blue Book or Kelly's Blue Book or Kellys Blue Book or even NADA Blue Book or KBB. KBB started from a family owned used car business that bought trade-ins from auto dealers and used their internally generated list of used car prices to inform dealers how much the car was worth. They became trusted industry insiders and appraisers of car values. This led to Kelley Blue Book, named after the social register, called a blue book. The rest is history. KBB supplies used car prices to most car pricing sites. Dealers laugh when you tell them you know the Kelley Blue Book Value of your trade in. I think blue book car prices show trade-in values lower than other sources, which falsely leads you to accept less for your car then it is worth. Use other sites in addition to Kelly Blue Book to price cars. Most car dealers use the yellow NADA book to price used cars.

All About Edmunds

Edmunds.com has new car reviews, holdback listed by manufacturer, and photos for most new and used cars. Like Fighting Chance, it lists current factory to consumer rebates. Edmunds also has a useful Town Hall feature, where you can post a car related question and it will be answered by either a moderator or other car buyers in the Town Hall. Edmunds might not always have all the info, but hey it's free. You should price out a used car on Edmunds, and Kelley Blue Book to get a consensus on price. Then check all the used car classifieds that we mention here, and see how much sellers are asking for the car you want to buy. No one ever gets their asking price, so take the selling prices with a grain of salt.

Negotiating the Price With The Seller

You can start negotiating price, or go home, study all the data you collected, then when you have all your ducks in a row, go back to the seller to negotiate. Don't just try to chisel down their price, that's old school negotiating. Your offer will be based on sound research yielding the fairest price possible, ignoring the asking price altogether. Offer what the car is worth based on market values given by car pricing sites. They will all have varying values, so get an average figure, and print out from all the sites. Don't forget to subtract for over mileage, and add for options. Many used car pricing sites have three categories of condition of the car which they report the market value of. The condition will be listed as bad, fair, good, and each has it's own dollar value listed, similar to the blue books in the stores.

Research selling prices at sites such as UsedCars.com, Cars.com, CarsDirect.com and Car.com. Choose ads that are lower priced than the seller's car, to prove he is asking more than others. This will burst their bubble, when you can show them several cars of the same model and year as his, that are far cheaper. The seller might tell you "OK, so you found a cheaper price, maybe they have problems with their cars". You'll just reply "You mean every one of these cars has problems?"

Most sellers don't know how to price a car, so when you give your offer, it may be far less than the seller's "Hail Mary" price. They'll get all insulted, and tell you you're crazy, that's way below their asking price. You must then educate the seller that his asking price was wrong to begin with. That's when you show him the printouts from all the pricing sites. The seller may show you other cars in the newspaper and say "See, they are asking the same amount". Just tell the seller that very few sellers get their asking price when they sell a car, so those newspaper prices he's showing you are inflated.

"What kind of research did you do to determine what your car is worth?

Show me your research printouts, I have all mine right here, where's yours?"

I bet the seller has no research may be arrogant and indignant over your offer. They are unaware their asking price is off base, they get infuriated with your "low ball offer", and may refuse to deal with you. They probably need the money, the car is taking up space in their driveway, their wife complains every day as he lets offers slip through his fingers. His pride won't let him sell the car at your price. He'll say, "why don't you buy one of those other cars if they are cheaper? If my car is not worth it, why do you want it at all?" It's their last ditch futile effort to justify their price. He's trying to divert you from the fact that he cannot justify his selling price. Any seller using this strategy has just told you he has no valid research on the value of the car. A seller who knows the market value would say "Here's my printouts from the car pricing sites, my price is in line with accepted standards". Tell him "We like your car, but the research we have shows that it is not worth your asking price", point out all the defects, lack of maintenance records, etc. Tell him the printouts specify a car in good condition. Point out scratches, dings, rust, carpet stains, cracked dash, justification to offer even less than the car pricing printouts. Keep hammering him for his research and justification until you are the clear victor of that debate.

Tell the seller if his car was really worth what he is asking for it, then it would have sold already.

Tell the seller "You'll have your garage back, you'll have this cash which I'm sure you can use, no more no shows, no wife nagging you about getting the car sold, no more renewing your ads." Just because he did not get his asking price does not mean he lost. Your suggestion that he's a winner puts him at ease..

Then your buddy chimes in, heads for car, motioning to leave. Your buddy says "he's not going to lower the price, you are just wasting your time, and you should go back to the other seller who was flexible". Your buddy reminds you the "other car" had lower mileage. The seller is listening to this exchange and panics. He knows you're on your way out the door, his sales tactics have failed him. You must always be prepared to walk. There will be other cars. If his car was so great, it would have been sold already. Make your ultimatum to the seller. There is no way you will pay more for any car than fair market value. Right after you say this to the seller, turn to your buddy and ask him where the next stop on your list it. Your buddy pulls other ads out of the folder, and reads off the info. Head to your car to leave. Hopefully this will make the seller hop into action and accept your offer.

This is what gets you a good deal. Your strategy is to keep the seller on the defense. Whoever asks the questions is in control of the conversation. Continue firing difficult questions at the seller, but be polite. Let your printouts be the "bad guy", not you. Don't say "You're crazy, I don't think your car is worth this". Instead tell the seller "the research I have here shows that your car is only worth this". Now your friendly relationship with the seller is still intact, and you are a messenger relaying information. How can the seller argue with data from car sites who are experts at pricing cars? Skillful treatment of the seller gets your deal signed for you. You can let them know their deal is lousy without hurting their feelings.

Do Not Buy That Used Car If...

These are the top mistakes made by used car buyers. Don't let this happen to you!

• The 17 digit VIN#'s on the door, hood, engine, dashboard do not all match exactly

• You failed to have a mechanic check out the car on a lift

• You did not run the Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Reports on the car's VIN# prior to purchasing

• The title still shows a lien holder with no "Lien Satisfied" stamp on it. It means they still owe the bank

• The AutoCheck report shows evidence of odometer rollback or title branded as junk, flooded, stolen, etc

• There is no VIN# on the dashboard, or it has been filed down or altered in any way

• The seller does not let you drive the car first

• The seller does not back up every verbal promise IN WRITING!

• The seller is NOT the owner of the car. It means they are a dealer's agent

• The seller has no written bill of sale identifying the car, VIN#, and stating the title has not been rebuilt, etc.

• The seller does not give you copies of anything you ask for

• It's parked along the side of the road with a For sale sign, unless you can verify they are the owner

• The seller has no drivers license, title, and registration for the car. Assume the car is stolen

• You have not verified the seller's name on their drivers license is the same person on the car title

• The seller refuses to let you take the car to a trusted mechanic for inspection

• The seller's asking price is suspiciously far below market value

• The seller makes you sign a power of attorney, or only wants cash

• The seller tells you to pay now, and he'll get you the title tomorrow, it's locked up at the bank

Here are sum Questions to ask.

General Info And Features

What is the year, model, and color of the car?

How many miles are on the car?

Is the car manual or automatic transmission?

What options are on the car?

Are the seats vinyl, cloth, or leather?

If the seats are electric, are they working normally?

Does the car have an alarm and does it work?

Does the car alarm ever false trigger? How often?

Ownership And History

Why is the owner selling the car?

How many owners has this car had?

Was the car driven by a person who smokes?

Has the odometer ever been rolled back?

What is the 17 digit VIN# of this car?

(Get this info and obtain a AutoCheck Vehicle History Report)

Does the car have an extended warranty?

If so, is the Extended Warranty transferable to a new owner?

(This can only be verified in writing from the existing policy. Word of honor is not good enough).

Has the title been branded by an insurance company as junked, flooded, totaled, etc.?

(In some states they are required by law to disclose this in the ad).

Has the car ever been in an accident, and if so, was there frame damage, and how much was the repair?

Has the car ever been repainted?

Has the car been used for hire as a taxi or limousine?

Does the seller have the title in their posession for inspection?

Is the seller acting on behalf of a dealer?

Maintenance And Condition

Do they have all maintenance records, proof of tune ups, and oil change receipts?

What are all the major problems with the car?

Are there any major scratches, dents or dimples in the paint?

Is there any rust on the car?

How is the condition of the interior, seats, the dash, roof?

Are there any transmission problems such as slipping, not changing gear, etc.?

If manual transmission, when was the clutch last replaced?

Does the A/C blow cold and does the heater blow warm?

Is the battery, alternator, and starter in good condition?

What electrical problems are there with the car?

Does the Radio work?

Does the car have an oil leak, transmission leak or radiator leak?

When was the last time the radiator was flushed?

When was the last time the A/C system was worked on?

Does the car burn oil or have white exhaust?

What EXACT month was the last oil change?

When was the last tune up or fuel injector cleaning?

How old are the tires and when were they last replaced?

If the car has headlight motors do they work properly?

Do the power doors and power windows work?

Is the dashboard cracked?

Is there a CD changer or tape player and is it working?

Any skipping problems with the CD player?

Are all speakers working and are any of them cracked?

Does the water pump make any strange rattles or noises?

When was the battery or alternator replaced last?

Batteries last only about 2 years on average.

Drivability Issues

Does the car drive straight or does it pull to the right or left?

When was the last time the tires were aligned?

Any problems with excessive wear and balding on the tires?