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Anonymous
Anonymous asked in PetsDogs · 2 weeks ago

Long line tips?

My dog loves to go on hikes and we’ve been working on leash manners for a while. I’m finally more comfortable with giving him longer leash privileges. The only issue is (even in a heel) it’s hard to get his attention. He is a hound and often follows his nose, and while he’s being trained to track I would love if he would not galavant off at a moments whim, or stand sniffing with no regard to me trying to get his attention. 

I worry this could get him into trouble on trails. We’ve been working on leave it with interesting scents (horse, other dog, ferret ect. Scented fabrics) but he still gets distracted. 

Any tips to help him work on this?

5 Answers

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  • Anonymous
    2 weeks ago

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  • PR
    Lv 7
    2 weeks ago

    Dogs generally are taught "specialized" training techniques, after they have mastered basic obedience. In teaching your dog to track, ahead of becoming a well-mannered and obedient dog, you are impairing any attempts at obedience.

    When we took our well-mannered, older dog to actual obedience classes (and she did quite well), they would not allow her to advance to higher classes until she mastered the first classes. I do believe this was because it takes time and effort for a dog to learn things. It takes practice, as well.

    If a dog is off "following his nose", he has just forgotten any normal obedience and is on to a very different sort of activity. This would hold true for any other form dog classes or activities such as: fly ball; hurdles, agility, hunting, chasing ducks and geese, herding, etc. Any trainer will be certain the dog can follow basic commands and do them well, before advancing to any training in other areas.

    I also NEVER allowed my dogs on a long leash unless in my own yard. There is no reason for this unless you have a fully  trained dog who will return to you, no matter what. . 

    If you can take your dog to a dog park, off-leash and expect him to return to you with your first call for "come", then your dog can be off-leash at the dog park. BUT, you should never hike where other people are walking or running with a dog off-leash. That is asking for trouble and not considerate to the other people. 

    Take your dog to obedience classes through an actual dog trainer, and not one at a pet supply store. These trainers actually know dogs from previous experience and are selected for their experience. THEN, consider advanced training, once your dog has mastered: sit, stay, come, heel, down. There are lots of dogs who are bred for certain uses, but that does not mean they can just go off-leash.

    To get your dog to listen to you better:

    -Walk the dog on the sidewalk for brief 10 minute walks. At each of these walks, bring treats along in your pocket. Walk the dog for about 10 to 15 feet RIGHT NEXT TO your left side. The dog's neck or front leg should be right next to your leg. This is called, "heel". Move forward saying, "heel" and tug a bit forward on the leash. Expect the dog to move with you as soon as you lean into the walk. If he isn't moving, tug again a bit harder. At about the 10 to 15 foot mark, slow down, halt, and pull back on the leash. Say, "sit". Help the dog into the sit if he does not do this as you slow to a stop. Once he sits, praise him, and give him a treat. (A dog with a strong sense of smell should be quite adept at realizing there will be a treat each 15 feet). 

    Now, move your left foot forward and pull somewhat forward with the leash again, saying: "heel" and expecting the dog to move forward. Repeat as above. After sitting each 10 to 15 feet on every walk, the dog will soon realize you actually mean business and are not out for fun and games. (You can play in your yard, follow scents, do agility, do hurdles, etc. but, NOT on a normal walk.) Treats should help him pay attention, as well as your expecting him to follow these cues each and every time. 

    If someone will be passing you, make the dog sit, before they reach you. Squat down if you must and wait until they pass. Once the are well-past you and your dog, praise him for sitting and begin to walk on with the command.

    The only way to get your dog to listen to you is to practice this manner of walking, and NOT letting the dog follow his nose. These walks should be TRAIING, and not entertainment for the dog.

  • Anonymous
    2 weeks ago

    My dogs are NEVER off lead OR on a long lead unless they respond to my commands.  I actually sued someone over a similar problem.  Their dog on a long lead, I'm in shorts, their dog starts to run, they can't control the dog, the dog runs around me, leash gets wrapped around my leg, I have a 4" long 1-2" wide scar from where the leash cut into my leg.  In MY area rattlesnakes would be a problem IF my dogs didn't respond to "snake away."

  • Anonymous
    2 weeks ago

    If your dog doesn't listen to you, the leash is too long.     You do not give your dog more responsibility than he can handle.

    Freedom comes with willingness to behave appropriately with said freedom.

    Most people I know with scent trackers live somewhere the dogs can be off leash to do what they innately do and the dogs come back when called.  

    "He's being trained to track"..ok....but what does this have to do with you taking him on a hiking trail?  He still needs to behave responsibly on a hiking trail.

    As a horse person, it worries me that you have your dog on a long extendable leash and your dog is still unresponsive.  That leash is a danger to me and my horse.  Let the dog off the leash or keep him on a short leash.    For the sake of everyone else.

    I've properly desensitized my horse to dogs, so yours won't bother mine.   But I will be really pissed if I'm coming down a trail and your idiot dog is on a 20 foot lead who can wrap himself around my horse's legs, etc.

    Tips for training your dog?    You adopted the wrong breed for your lifestyle. 

      

  • 2 weeks ago

    Has your dog had any FORMAL obedience training?  Usually, in obedience classes, a dog can learn to heel while on leash (if asked or required to do do) for short periods on a walk.  A dog needs to be TAUGHT what is expected (before going out into the world) and will not "learn" to give you attention, if not taught to, esp if it is a hunting or hound breed.

    A BRISK walk for exercise, is also different than a casual walk for going pee or poo or doing sniffing/exploring.  If you intend to "exercise" - the dog needs to KEEP UP and not DAWDLE & you need to be MOVING out - like doing 5 miles in 45 minutes.... or less.  The dog can also carry a weighted back-pack or dog saddle-bags, to burn more calories.

    All of my dogs have been taught to track & have earned tracking TITLES.  They also have advanced obedience titles with scores 190-195 on all legs (thru CDX) since I TRAINED them through my formal obedience classes to PAY ATTENTION TO ME = when commanded to "HEEL". I also taught them a RELEASE word to tell them they could break out of heeling.

    Long line work (aka using a tracking line - which is 20-40 ft) or walking on a long line does NOT tend to "encourage" the dog to PAY attention.  The POINT in tracking, is for the dog to get OUT AHEAD OF YOU & indicate the direction of the track. Therefore, the equipment used, may not be helping, but is actually HURTING your situation, since in tracking.... the dog is NOT supposed to look at you; UNLIKE in obedience.. 

    You also cannot get the dog back quickly, if using a "long-line" on a green way - if a biker, skate boarder, person JOGGING or another dog/person or a loose dog is coming QUICKLY upon you - from either direction.  Dogs take a "CLUE" from the equipment used, as to how they are to BEHAVE.  Therefore, I would ditch the LONG LINE, aside from tracking purposes.  

    In our house, the long line meant tracking or field work (birds).If you want attention, OR to be able to get the dog back quickly, OR to get them to SIT - if something/someone is approaching -(that is what a 6 ft leash of for.)  I absolutely NEVER use a retractable leash for dog "exercise walking" or tracking.  Far harder to get the dog BACK, than a cotton web, long-line (like for tracking).

    If you intend to keep using a line, vs a leash on your dog (esp if required to do so - BY LAW in many parks or nature reserves) then I would still advocate for less length = 10-15 ft. max.  Too much line, can lead to the it getting CAUGHT on bushes or trees if the dog is not right WITH you.  

    I made it a POINT to teach my dogs to come to a whistle, such that I could do a recall via whistle, if they got off leash & too far out, in open fields.  The sound of a whistle carries much FURTHER than your voice.  A good recall is always important  WHETHER the dog is off, or on leash, due to all sort of emergencies.  

    How much have you worked on his recall - and how well does your dog come back or "spin on a dime" off of a distraction?  (it does not sound like this is even an OPTION) in YOUR CASE.  If you cannot call your dog OFF a squirrel or cat (even in your neighborhood) - letting the dog get 20-40 ft from you is a very BAD IDEA.  

    Linear velocity will apply more force to you - as the dog get FURTHER FROM YOU, esp if the dog takes off suddenly, and you may also be more likely to loose control of the line (AND DROP IT) on a hike with the dog "hunting" or going off with no warning, vs going down a carefully laid track, while harnessed and at a moderate pace (and during which, you can actually lean backwards - if needed, to slow the dog down) on usually fairly LEVEL surfaces (unlike on hikes).

    Sorry, but your dog is not WELL ENOUGH trained to be on a long line, other than when harnessed & actually tracking a lost person, or planted articles.

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