Question about car amplifiers?

Question

I just got a new mustang with the shaker stereo upgrade (8 speaker audiophile system) in it, but no subwoofers. It sounds great but I was looking for some advice as far as whether or not an aplifier and a pair of subwoofers would increase the performance enough to be worth the $$, and also had questions after browsing sites as to what the difference is between mosfet and A/B amps and how many channels I'd need (can i leave the installed stereo as is and just tie the amp in some how?)

? · Accepted Answer

Ok if you get a pair of 12" sub the best quality amp is going to be a two channel amplifier. the subwoofer system is going to get you bass performance from it not like high or mids. if you want excellent sound quality coming from your stock 6X9 speakers your going to need a 4 channel amp which will make the sound quality more crisp.
as for the a/b amp and mosfet-

Class B--Flow to medium power output (<100 watt RMS), BJTs are the best tradeoff for most applications. For higher output, use 

MOSFETs -- primarily because they will have higher reliability at high power outputs. MOSFETS will cost more, and require a more complex circuit with more front end gain to achieve similar levels of output distortion. 

Class A: I'd always use MOSFETs, simply because the heat so compromises BJT SOA that they are not reliable for significant power outputs (say above 50 watts, absent heroic cooling). 

hope this helps

Anonymous · Answer

Ok first of, are you sure there are no subs? I thought the shaker system had a sub, or two depending on which one?

Most amps are "mosfet". That just describes a type of part in the amp. Class A/B is the typical type of car amplifier. Class D amps are made to power subs only, you can get either type. Just match the wattage and impedance. 

And yes, you can add an amp and subs to a stock system with a line out convertor or LOC. As for if it would be worth it, that all depends on how happy you are with the stock sound....

? · Answer

Check these sites out...it is a good reference.

http://www.bcae1.com/
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198477
http://www.termpro.com/articles/articles.html#How


If your headlight dims with the bass notes, the “BIG 3” might work.  If not an H.O. alternator will be needed, or else be prepared to pour a lot of $$$ for batteries.

This site explains the "BIG 3" upgrades.

http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1

List of items for my ride:
Head Unit: Alpine DVA - 9861
Processor(s): 
- EpiCenter (by: Audio Control)                        
- Apex (by: Kove Audio) 
Amp: JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 (constant 800 watts)
Cap:  One Rockford Fosgate1 farad Cap
Front: MB Quart 216
Rear: Boston Acoustics (6x9) SX65
Sub: 1 Eclipse 12" Alum. Dual 4 ohm VC
Battery: Kinetik HC1400 Power Cell
Alternator: Load Boss 180amps

1/0 ga wire to D-block
Using a dual fused D-block in the engine bay
- ANL 150 amp fuse (used for H.O. Alternator)
- ANL 100 amp fuse (used as power wire to amp)
- “BIG 3” upgrade

Question about car amplifiers?

3 Answers