?

My leopard gecko has always had trouble shedding, especially with her toes. I've never helped her shed, aside from getting the stuck shed off her toes about a day after she finishes with the rest of her body.

Lately though, I've noticed that her sheds have been really bad [she has a humid hide] and pulls at the shed on her toes so hard that she makes her toes bleed. I even noticed a few nails missing, mainly from her back feet.

I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to stop this? I have no idea what I can do, but I don't want her getting an infection or anything from the wounds [her environment is always kept clean - but there still might be a chance of infection].

I started a colony a couple months ago [i started with about 250 large and most of them have molted into their adult stage by now] and now I found that I have a lot more males than I do females.

So I have a few questions about that first - how much would 50 males go for? I feed leopard geckos, so the adult dubia are too big for my LGs to eat. So how much would you pay for 50 males?

Second - how would I ship them? I would only ship during late spring/all of summer/early fall so I wouldn't have to provide any extra heat. I read that you can just pack them in a box with egg cartons and a bit of food, within a bigger box. Would that be okay? Would you need any extra air holes or something?

I was going to use ebay to sell them, and I'm not really looking to make money. My only goal is to make back the $80 I already spent on my colony [i bought 500 small and 250 large] which I can make back over any length of time.

Another question is what reasonable price would make them sell the fastest? I was thinking that for 50 males I could charge like $20 - $25, would that be okay?

Also when I do have extra nymphs, how much would 100 of them sell for? $10 be okay?

I want to get a samsung galaxy note to do digital art on, but I'm having trouble deciding what size would be best. I know that typically, a bigger one would be better, but would the 8 inch or 7 inch suffice? I'm on a budget of about $200, and those are just in my price range.

I'm also open to any other tablet suggestions for digital art if you have any.

My problem child (leopard gecko) is at it again, with yet another problem; impaction.

Today I picked up my gecko, and discovered a large blue spot on her belly. I know how to treat it, but I just want to know how it was possible.

The substrate is paper towels - and she's been living on that for over a year. No problems there.

Heating is mid- 90's hot side, mid 80's cool side, and she hasn't had any trouble in the past with defecation and eating.

Of course, she just recently started eating again, even though her tail is kind of small. Every winter she'll stop eating, and I'll feed her the slurry to help her retain at least some nutrition (no different with this winter - I fed her the slurry everyday).

But I read somewhere that it's possible to get impaction from eating mealworms (the chitin in their shells or something), is this true? She had been eating them fine with no problem up until now (if that is the problem), and I recently began the switch to dubia roaches - not that she eats many of those. I've seen her eat ONE since I started the switch.

My other geckos are fine with both dubias and mealworms, no problems with eating or defecation.

So I'm wondering, how on earth did Sunny (the problem child) develop a case of impaction?

I have 3 leopard geckos, and lately I've decided to switch from mealworms to dubia roaches as their staple.

I've done a ton of research on dubias and I think I want to start a colony. I figured that I could probably start with 100 or so large nymphs, so that they can molt into adults quickly and start breeding.

I was wondering what the positives and negatives were to be if I were to start a colony (aside from the initial cost of setting everything up).

I also realized that I am definitely going to be overrun with dubias within a few months, and was wondering if it was possible to sell them off. Like if it was easy/hard to sell them online. I know there are already tons of people selling them, and I'm not really looking for much of a profit. Maybe $100 or so a month would work just fine for me, just so that it could cover the cost of maintaining the dubias.

Also, how many babies would be produced a month if there ended up being, say, 50 females?

Actually, any info/experience you've had with dubias/dubia colonies would be great.

I have two big dogs, an 80lb labradoodle and a 50lb goldendoodle. They are both about 1 years old, and are very behaved when my family is around.

But once we leave the house, or they are left alone for any period of time, they will pull things off the counters and chew/destroy them. How do I stop this behavior? We aren't home, so we can't correct them in any way. We try and leave every surface bare as possible, so that they can't get to anything, but there are always going to be things left on counters and such.

Even if all the counters are cleaned, they have started taking down books off of our bookshelf, and there is nowhere we can put those.

So what do I do, how can I stop them from destroying things?

I was having this argument with my friend, and he claims that independent writing isn't common in high school (meaning people don't write stories in high school). I believe that it is, seeing as I know a lot of people that have written stories or are in the process of writing a story. Which is it?

When I get up in the morning, I smell like my dogs (I have 3, and they sleep in my room so my room smells like dog too) and I shower so I smell relatively normal. But I have practice afterschool, and I sweat a ton (it's cross country, lots of running) and I hate that feeling of dried sweat on your body so I want to shower after practice too.

Usually I shower at 5am when I wake up, then 5pm when I get home from practice.

But I'm wondering what this will do to my skin. I use lotion after I shower at night, and I only shampoo in the morning every 3 days. I use conditioner everyday though, or else my hair is too hard to comb out.

I was thinking condition in the morning (and shampoo if needed), then nothing on my hair after practice, just using soap on my skin.

Would this be okay?

I just want to know in case my geckos ever start fighting, how would you stop the fight while they're fighting? Like if one were biting the other's tail, is there a safe way to get them to stop without causing harm to either gecko?

I know that they can store fat in their armpits, and my female gecko has recently gotten a couple. I know that she's fat and healthy, fed on crickets and mealies, but I was wondering if there's a possibility of obesity in leopard geckos.

Like is it possible that a leopard gecko becomes so fat with fat stored in their pits, that they start developing health problems? I've tried to do some research, but it doesn't seem there are too many answers. Should I just let her keep building up that fat, eating as many mealworms and crickets as she wants? (usually eats about 10 mealworms and 5 crickets a day).

Her frame is definitely kind of big, (not as big as a giant of course lol) but she's a lot bigger than my other one.

I was thinking that maybe I should cut back on the mealies a bit, slowly decreasing how much I give her. I always have a dish in there and I refill it every night, and "feeding time" is the same every night, where I will throw in a few crickets and re-fill the mealie bowl.

What do you think I should do? Would there be a health risk?

I was watching my gecko today, and she seemed to be licking the gutload in the mealworm dish (I put a little in there so that the mealworms wouldn't cannabalize and stuff). The gutload is home made, made of natural oats (like the ones you use in oatmeal) and a high quality dog food. I'm not sure why she does it, but she seems to like it.. Is it safe for her to be eating (licking) it?

My leopard gecko spends most of her nights attempting to climb the glass walls of the tank. She seems to have lost her appetite a bit, but her tail is still fat and she does eat, just a lot less. She's about 11months I'm guessing, seeing as I got her from a petstore and she looked about 3-4 months (that's also what the petstore said, not sure if I trust them though) and I got her in December. So I'm guessing her birthday is in August somewhere.

Anyways, she still eats what I give her (like if I put a mealie in front of her) she just doesn't eat as much from the bowl (I have mine on a mealie diet with the occasional cricket). And she keeps climbing the glass, so I'd stick my hand into her viv and she'd climb onto it. I'd take her out and let her walk around a bit on my bed and let her climb etc. She seems to really enjoy it, but I can't always have her out (I usually take her out for 30min a day). So I'm wondering how to keep her entertained within her cage (she lives in a 20gal long with 3 regular hides, 1 humid, her dishes, paper towel substrate). Any suggestions would be great, because I'm turning a 40 gallon tank into something special, something (hopefully) more entertaining. My 3 geckos will live in the 40gallon once the new gecko I got is finished being quarantined.

Is there anything special I should do for them? Like is 90 degrees too hot for them? Or are my bowls too big? (she can barely see over the edge, only if she stretches up) what about water? I don't want her to drown in them.. and should I get/make smaller hides seeing as she's so tiny?

I recently got a new gecko, and she's one month old. She's 10 grams, so the breeder thought that she would be okay to go to a new home. She lives in a 10 gallon alone, with three hides (since she's so small, I might add another) and three dishes (food, water, calcium). This is the first time I've gotten one so young, and I'm not sure if there's anything special I need to do for her. The breeder had fed her regular sized mealies her whole life, which is what I'm feeding her now. I will be getting her crickets though, I'll probably give 2 or 3 small a night to try and get her hunting instinct going.

Recently, I discovered that a female leopard gecko climbing atop another female leopard gecko's back is a form of bullying. One of mine did that a few days ago, but as I watched, the one under just climbed out from underneath it. I went to the breeder's today and got a new gecko (don't worry, being quarantined for 3 months in a separate viv) and she said that when things get too hot, sometimes the geckos will climb all over each other. So I'm stumped on what to do now. After that once incident (they've never once hurt one another, no bites/scratches, etc.) they seem to have returned back to normal, just minding their own business and space.

In fact, they even share the basking log (I use an extra light to help heat their tank, there's ac in my room and the tank doesn't heat properly with just the UTH) sometimes. They both eat and poop fine, and I see them eat daily (or every other day at the very least, they always have mealies in their tank). So I'm wondering if I have a bullying problem. Both are still in good weight, (they're both around 50-55g) and they are both roughly the same size with one slightly bigger.

So is there a bullying problem? If so, what should I do? They seem to get along fine, and I think that the heat was just getting to them or something (since then, I've lowered it down a notch to around 87 degrees hot side, 79 degrees cool side). If it is bullying, would a bigger tank solve it? I have a 40 gallon tank I was planning to house all three in when the new one gets a bit bigger and after the quarantine is over.

This is an email I wrote to a breeder a few minutes ago:

I've been housing my two leopard geckos in a 20gallon tank for about 4 months now. They've been getting along great, no signs of bullying or anything. Besides for when Sunny (Erser6) stopped eating (I had separated them right afterwards for a couple weeks until she started again) they've had no problems. But a few minutes ago, I found Cleo (my first gecko, the one from petco) climbing on top of Sunny as if she wanted to mate. I watched and Cleo started to lick Sunny, then try and climb on top of her. I had brought Cleo to you when I got Sunny, and you said she was a girl. I don't doubt your words, but I was wondering if I could bring Cleo and/or Sunny on Sunday to make sure. I don't think I'd be able to handle a bunch of baby geckos, and I know Sunny isn't up to perfect health yet.

Please help me, I don't know what to do!

Just like the question says. I'll be getting a third gecko soon, and they're having a sale on tanks at my local petco. I don't want to miss out on the sale, seeing as it will save me at least $100. Yes, I will quarantine the new gecko, and all that stuff. I know how to care for geckos, and what to do when you get a new one. I just need to know which size tank would be a better fit for 3 geckos.

I have a red lightbulb as a second heat source (sometimes the heat can't get high enough from just the UTH) and I was wondering if that would be okay for my albino leopard gecko seeing as they can't see red light. But I also know that albinos are more sensitive to light than other gecko morphs. So would the red light still be okay to use?

As in, "it will be fun!"

I need some suggestions, seeing as I have no clue where to start>.< It can't be made of food, it can't use a parachute/balloon, I can't use commercial packaging items, it has to fit into an 8 inch by 8 inch cube, can't be hard boiled, and it must be original packaging (like unique). Any suggestions would be amazing!!