?

I found a picture of an arrowhead that is very close in shape and style to the one that was shown here a few days ago. Both appear to be made of the same material and same technique. Now, I am curious myself.

http://www.ehow.com/list_7167671_tools-used-paleol...

Friend of mine wants to sell this touring bike.

http://classiccycleus.com/home/1982-trek-728/

I have not seen it yet bu I believe it is in good shape. How much would it be worth?

i love my Vuelta but the bike I am getting for wife has the mavic.

I was in need of a tube for 700x38 tire and even though I had 12 new tubes at home still in their boxes I didn't have that size. I ended up using a 26" tube with a range that covers the width of the tire. I know, I know, it is smaller in diameter but with some care I was able to make it work and being an emergency I am pretty happy with my resourcefulness.

The question is, would I be able to use a 700 tube in a 26 in tire or there would be extra rubber making folders and overlapping?

I hope Zeus, god of bicycles and Saint Prudent, patron of drivers and Virgin Mary of Dorleta, holly patroness of bicyclists in distress forgive me but my son want to do a father and son project involving a motorized bike contraction. A sin on my views. But I can't say no to a father and son (son and father, rather) project. So help me out. How can I accomplish this thing? Any worthy kits? Any recommended frames? He wants and old timer looking bike. The objective is for the two of us to spend time in the shop building something as he wants to study engineering and he is a hands on kind of guy. The goal is not to ride fast and not at all eliminate pedaling. The thing may never be used. The purpose is to build it, and the male bonding thingy. So the purpose is to build it for the beauty of it, like a piece of art. It will be great if it works even if it is not practical. He is into robotic building and competitions and has some other machines built like a feeder for the fish tank and so.

I know this is too long for Wle's short attention spam to read, so don't read, I will answer for you:

Wle: Blah blah blah

http://www.chopmtb.com/2013/02/22/want-to-knock-12...

40-42 F (15-17 C) but sunny. Good day to ride. Put 26 miles (40 km). Feels great. What are you waiting for?

Do you know about the recall? Not a real question but this could prevent accidents.

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml13/13102....

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152411791...

He thinks that Y!A is his personal advertising space. He likes to spam Y!A with his answers always pointing to his web site. If every commercial outfit in the world would do like he does using Y!A for his personal purposes, the place will be as dead as a dodo. He is wasting my time as I am tired of reading his pseudo answers loaded with commercials to the same web site. He has about 200 answers reffering to his site.

http://answers.yahoo.com/activity/qa?show=DU1hGnTn...

Can a plant start from a root? Any other method, that you can try?

http://compare.ebay.com/like/120814215347?_lwgsi=y...

Washing the bike, I noticed that the idler has quite a bit of lateral play and is wobbly too. It is a 105 with 3400 miles. I cleaned and put grease on it twice on this miles. Is that normal wear for a 105?

Any recommendations for some really good ones? Can I use idlers from Ultegra or DuraAce?

I think that this is the reason my shifting wasn't that crispy in the last 10 days or so.

These come from a 2008 madone 4.5 that crashed and had damage to the frame and fork. I know the guy as I ride often with him and the components are in good shape in general.

Wheels Bontrager

Race Shifters Shimano 105 STI, 10 speed Front

Derailleur Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur

Shimano Ultegra Crank Shimano

105 50/39/30 Cassette Shimano 105 12-27, 10 speed

Saddle Bontrager

Race Seat Post Bontrager

Carbon Handlebars Bontrager Select VR, 31.8mm

Stem Bontrager Select, 7 degree, 31.8mm Headset Aheadset w/cartridge

bearings, integrated, sealed, alloy Brakeset Alloy dual pivot w/Shimano

105 STI levers

I had this mountain bike wheel from a bike that was donated to me and I took it to one of the LBS for a pro appraisal.

I could see that:

1) at least 12 consecutive spokes were seriously rusted.

2) the rims were single wall and I could see that the pads didn't rub evenly on them because there were "minor" valleys on the breaking area, although it seem to be true.

3) the teeth were not seriously worn out but they were dented, like a little deformation at the trailing point of the tooth.

4) the free hub run smooth and had a nice clean sound.

5) spinning may be a little down but it has not been serviced for years.

The LBS assessment was to ride it even if it looks ugly and wait and see if a spoke breaks. With luck they will break one at a time and when is time to repair that spoke, will be a good time to further evaluate the rest of them.

I wasn't convinced but decided to service the bearings. Then I found that the cones were seriously pitted and the spokes were badly damaged from the chain dropping on them. About half the material had been gridded from all of them. The rust from the spokes had run and stained the rim tape. The tape curiously was relatively new. I thought that those nipples would not be any fun to adjust on those rusty spokes.

So, I bought a new set of wheels, cassette, chain, cranks... from a different LBS.

Nobody wants to be sold more parts that he needs but sending anyone with those wheels on single track rides would be irresponsible in my opinion. That wheel could collapse and cause some injury but even if only a spoke would break it could ruin my day in the woods... or my night, as I often ride with the full moon.

Working on a Trek 820. The BB is a CS11 cartridge and was mounted with the fixed side, the one with the flange on the left and the plastic splined nut on the right.

The shell has left hand treads on the right side and right hand treads on the left side. Seems to me that somebody installed the wrong BB and put it on the wrong side.

What BB should I buy to get it right?

Apparently they are trying to cut the funds for cycling and walking. In countries where the bikes get more facilities, they reduced the number of deaths, the cost of maintaining roads, and also the dependency on oil (foreign or domestic).

In Portland Oregon the use of gas dropped several billions $ a year just by adding bike lanes and facilitating commuting by bike.

Unfortunately our leaders don't see that. They may be looking the other way. Are they dumb or just in the payroll of big oil

http://www.bikeleague.org/

Cycling on TV in January. Too bad themp here is close to 25F.

Trek Madonna, Orbea Orca and such?

And is it common in this bike level to have the frame customized to your height, inseam, arm length, torso length and weight?

http://www.bhbikes.com.au/showbikedetails.php?bike...

So my 1988 or so Diamondback Sorrento MTB that I use for commuting and a 25 miles ride twice a month needs new chainrings and they go with the crank. I knew it needed a cassette and chain, but I thought the rings were ok. They weren't. I got 28-38/48 now and I would get the same. Can anybody recommend a set? I have taken them apart before and I know how to replace them but I never ordered one, so I am a little insecure about what to buy. I would like to keep the price below $50. I am planning to do the Kati trail in spring with that bike.

Thanks.